Winter Preparation, Guest Post from Kent Williams

Below is another guest post from Kent Williams, president of the Lake Barkley State Beekeepers Association in Western Kentucky, and of the Eastern Apiculture Society Master Beekeepers. A good beekeeper, all around nice guy, and good friend of mine. Kent always offers up good down to earth beekeeping advice. More posts by Kent.
Phil

Hello again, and welcome to the November edition of the LBBA newsletter. It does not seem possible that the holiday season is upon us, but it is. By now, the bees should be prepared for winter with ample food stores, majority of the bees (cluster) in the bottom box(es), supers of stored food above the cluster, and no supers full of empty comb above the cluster. For colonies that are low on food stores, the best option at this time of year is to feed solid feed, such as a patty or candy-board. If preparing solid feed for a colony, it is advisable to employ a philosophy of over-kill. Even for relatively small colonies, feed a patty or candy board the size of the top of the hive. Continue reading

Ooh That Smell! Can You Smell that Smell – In Your Beeyard?

Did you detect an unusual smell in your beeyard this fall? Every autumn brings calls from beekeepers about a funny, funky, dirty socks odor emanating from their beeyards and hives. So what’s that smell? It probably comes from aster or goldenrod nectar. This funky odor can be detected upon opening a hive, and sometimes even from outside it. In 2011, it was so prominent that it could be picked up from my driveway – 25 feet from the apiary. While ripened aster and goldenrod honeys have a strong flavor and so are less preferred by some, they would not be considered bad-tasting. However, their raw nectar often produces a sour, unpleasant odor which can permeate the hive and the apiary.

There are many species and varieties of aster. The common nectar source plants are described as small flower asters, and vary in color. I commonly see two types, Continue reading

Current Varroa Mite Control Products

After posting the recent article on varroa control research, I received several questions regarding current varroa treatment. We have two classes of products to control varroa. The first consists of the older, more toxic chemicals, Apistan (with active ingredient fluvalinate), and Check-Mite Plus (active ingredient coumaphos.) These are traditional agricultural pesticides which have been in use for many years, and most beekeeping professionals have serious concerns about their negative effects upon honey bees. In addition, due to the length of time they have been employed to control varroa, the mites have developed varying degrees of resistance to them, rendering these chemicals less effective than they once were. There is a newer generation of varroa control products on the market, products like ApiLife VAR, ApiGuard, the Miteaway Quick Strip and Hop Guard. These products use more natural materials like thymol, formic acid and hop oil. These products are considered much safer for bees, if used correctly, and they are effective.

I recommend beekeepers use these newer line of products. I also recommend that you contact your apiculture extension specialist or your local bee inspector for advice. Some products may work better than others in your area. And always follow the label instructions that come with the product.

New Research: Fungus as Varroa Killer

A press release from the University of Guelph, announces a newly published scientific paper describing recent varroa mite research conducted in Canada. Researchers tested a species of fungus as a possible biological control for varroa, with promising results. One of the researchers, Dr. Ernesto Guzman, is a frequent speaker at beekeeper meetings in the United States, including the Heartland Apicultural Society conference in Indiana in 2011.

Keep in mind that commercial control products based on such research will take years to develop, or may never materialize. I recall sitting in a meeting in 1999 and hearing a scientist report on her research, using a different fungus from the one in the Canadian study, and on its potential as a varroa control product. Here is a report on that research, conducted at the USDA Weslaco Bee lab. Scientists in England also looked a varroa eating fungus over ten years ago. A varroa control product has yet to be developed as a result of either of these studies. Read the press release, but don’t start looking in the beekeeping catalogs for a varroa eating fungus product any time soon. Continue reading

Helping Our Bees Get Ready for Winter

It is fall, which means cool nights, frost in some places, and Friday night high school football. It also means that it’s time to make sure our hives are ready for winter, and time to give the bees some assistance where needed.

While it is possible for bees to prepare themselves for the big sleep of winter without the intervention of a beekeeper – feral colonies have been doing so for eons – with good management, beekeepers can make hives better prepared for the hardships of winter. And by doing our job as beekeepers, we can improve on the survival rates of managed colonies over those of unmanaged (feral) colonies. Actually bees don’t sleep in winter; Phil sleeps more in winter. Bee cluster together, eat honey, and flex their wing muscles to produce heat. They do not hibernate. (I would like to.) Bees are very much awake – most of the time. Continue reading

Reference materials for talks at West Virginia state beekeepers meeting

Today and tomorrow I’ll be speaking in West Virginia at their fall state beekeepers meeting. My talks will deal with re-queening hives, problems ms beekeepers have with queens and using a double screen division board. Here are some links and a listing of reference materials for these talks.

To Extract Or Not To Extract Uncapped Honey?

I have had several recent questions about uncapped honey, from a few cells to several frames, in supers. They fall into two catagories: the issue of whether or not to extract, and concerns about moisture content if the honey is extracted.

In answer to the first, I say go ahead and extract it. It is possible that the moisture of the honey is fine and that, due to the season, the bees have not capped it. For several reasons, I think it best to get the supers off the hive in the fall, remove the honey, and store the boxes and frames. First of all, we want to protect the drawn comb and to encourage the bees to put fall honey in the brood boxes. Also, if you need to treat for nosema or varroa mites, you must first remove the honey supers from the hive. (Most varroa products and Fumagillin, the only recommended control product for nosema, require that all honey supers be taken off before treating.)

Next, what about the possibility that the uncapped cells contain high moisture honey, and how much of a problem is it if they do? Continue reading

Regarding Honey Bees AND Baseball

When I wrote my first post on philcrafthivecraft.com early last spring, I warned that I would digress from beekeeping from time to time and write about other subjects, including baseball. Today you’ll see that honey bees and baseball sometimes converge.

You may have read about a recent (August 7th) Delta Airline flight, which was delayed in Pittsburg due to a honey bee swarm that landed on the jet’s wing, see article and photo. My wife, Lee, and I, who are both longtime Cincinnati Reds fans, recall a Reds game in the 1970’s that was delayed when a swarm alit on the field of play in Riverfront Stadium. An internet search revealed that the incident took place in an April 17, 1976 contest with the San Francisco Giants. Continue reading

Evaluating My Hive During My Recent Inspection

This is a follow-up to a recent post on mid-summer hive inspections. Previously, I discussed how to go about an inspection and what to look for. In this post, I will talk about what I saw during the  inspection and what it means.

During any hive inspection, no matter what the time of year, I’m interested in the following issues:
-Food stores in the hive
-The presence of brood in all stages
-Colony population
-Signs of disease, parasites or pests – this may include taking samples or using other monitoring techniques to spot problems which cannot be assesed by visual inspection alone.

Food stores in the hive
At this point in the season, I am not concerned that hives contain sufficient food stores (honey and/or sugar syrup) for the winter, but rather that they contain enough food to get them through until the fall nectar flow begins later in August. This is the time of year when, in Kentucky and the surrounding region, the nectar flow usually slows to a trickle or a slow drip. However, in central Kentucky at least, the bees seem to be finding nectar in spite of the dry weather. In my apiary the flow is small. Not much was being put into the honey supers (I have now removed all of them), but there is enough to cause the bees to rear more brood than I normally see this time of year. Which is a good thing. While making my recent inspection, I noted stored honey in the brood boxes, which is also good. I would be concerned if there were less than 15 pounds in the brood boxes. A hive at any time of year needs about that much to sustain itself during periods when little or no nectar is coming in – either because floweres fail to produce it during a dry spell, or because extended periods of rain keep the bees from gathering it. Fifteen pounds translates into about 3 deep frames full of honey, so it doesn’t take much.

The presence of brood in all stages                                                                                 What about the queen? In my earlier post on hive inspections, I never mentioned looking for the queen. That’s because the presence of eggs, uncapped brood, and capped brood tells me that she is there whether or not I see her, and much more besides. Abundant, healthy brood in all stages of developement is an indication of of  the general health of the hive.

Healthy capped brood

The cappings on capped brood should be constant in shape and color, and larvae should be a nice, white color. It is very important to learn what healthy brood looks like in order to recognize problems when they appear. A lack of brood may indicate the absence of the queen, an infertile queen, a shortage of food, or health or parasite issues. However, the genetic make-up of some queens causes them to slow down or stop laying during times of low nectar flow. As a result, though I am pleased to see brood and eggs, I do not immediately jump to the conclusion that their absence at this time of year is evidence of a serious problem.It just means that if I’m seeing no brood or seeing a break in the brood rearing cycle (eggs but no brood, or brood without eggs, for example) I need to try to figure out why.

Colony  population
When I open a hive, I also pay attention to the number of bees on the frames. A strong population is a good indicator of the health of a colony, especially when accompanied by ample food stores and brood. Reduced numbers call for an explanation. They could be the result of a current problem such as disease (nosema), or parasites (varroa). They could also be evidence of an earlier problem (such as the loss of a queen) from which the hive has not fully recovered. Late swarms and nucs which haven’t had time to build up exhibit low populations as well.

Signs of disease, parasites or pests?
If sufficient food stores, healthy brood, and a strong population are indications of a healthy hive, what are the signs of a problem? Take note of brood that is not constant in appearance or looks abnormal. Look for holes in abnormal capped brood which can be a sign of a brood disease or varroa mites. The most common health issues that honey bees face are varroa mites and nosema disease.  Nosema disease is common, but is difficult to detect; a lab analysis is required. I suggest that beekeepers collect samples in late summer and send them to a bee lab for testing. The alternative is to treat preventatively. Beekeepers throughout the United States may send honey bee samples to the USDA Bee Lab in Beltsville, Maryland for free testing. Go to their webpage for information. You may also be able to send samples to your state university bee lab. In Kentucky, beekeepers can send samples to Dr. Tom Webster at Kentucky State University – email Dr. Webster (thomas.webster@kysu.edu) for information on collecting and mailing samples. Beekeepers in other states should check with their beekeeping university extension program for availability of testing services in their state. Often when samples are sent for nosema testing, varroa tests will be performed at the same time. However, varroa mites can easily be monitored by beekeepers as part of routine hive inspections. While the use of sticky boards is the most accurate sampling technique, other methods can be employed, including powdered sugar rolls, solution washes with soapy water or alcohol, and merely removing pupae with forceps. I consider after Labor Day the best time of the year for varroa treatments. Watch for future posts on monitoring and treating (if required) hives for varroa.

Phil’s latest beekeeping blunder!

I think beekeepers appreciate the fact that I will readily confess to making mistakes, especially with regard to beekeeping. Many times I’ve heard beekeepers reluctantly admit to doing something that caused them problems in the bee yard. They seem relieved when I say, “I did that once” or “let me tell you what I did…”.

Well, I did it again and I even made the same mistake more than once this year. And while not causing any serious damage to a hive, it has caused me (and my bees as well) some inconvenience. Continue reading